Review: Old Elk Wheated Bourbon

 

Still a newcomer in the world of bourbon distilleries, Colorado based Old Elk is a rapidly growing player in the bourbon industry, led by a master distiller with 40 years of experience producing spirits for a giant distillery that you may not have heard of if you don't know the ins-and-outs of America's distilling business.

Old Elk's founder Curt Richardson wanted to create a custom bourbon mash bill that was "smooth and easy," but he also wanted to scale quickly. Richardson reached out to an experienced distiller at Midwest Grain Products, a subsidiary of Seagram's that most consumers have never heard of, but has quietly played a huge role in several of the fastest growing brands in the bourbon industry including Bulleit, Angel's Envy, High West and James E. Pepper.  

Among the hallmarks of Old Elk's process is their "slow cut" process for proofing down whiskey, which reduces heat produced in the proofing process and helps retain some of the finer flavors in the spirit.

About Greg Metze, Old Elk Master Distiller

At the time Greg Metze was a distiller at MGP.  Metze is a chemical engineer by training and has been distilling spirits for 40 years. Metze, whose experience includes bourbons, ryes, exotic and light whiskies, gin and vodka, was at Seagram's at the time that Old Elk approached MGP to create its first bourbon. Metze says that he didn't know what to expect entering the distilling industry, but that he thought it would "Be pretty damn cool to be 23 and go make whiskey," and adds, "40 years later it's still pretty damn cool." 

Old Elk Wheated Bourbon Tasting Notes

I've enjoyed a few of Old Elk's bourbons including that initial release that Greg Metze was first asked to create at MGP, and today I have two of them on my shelf.  Like that initial release, the Old Elk Wheated Bourbon goes outside the industry norms of bourbon mash bills while still staying neatly within the legal limits of a bourbon whiskey.  Because it uses more wheat and less corn than most bourbons, it has a flavor profile that is simultaneously less sweet and more complex than most other wheated bourbon whiskies.

Mash Bill: 51% Corn, 45% Wheat, 4% Malted Barley. Aged 5 years. 92 Proof

Color: Medium Amber

Nose:  Vanilla, honey, bread, almonds, orange and oak

Palate: Honey, wheat bread, orange, nuts

Finish: Yeast, lingering sweetness, moderate warming in the upper throat.

Like the original Old Elk Bourbon, Old Elk Wheated Bourbon is smooth and easy.  At the same time, the high concentration of wheat gives it quite a bit of complexity as compared to a mash bill with a higher corn content.  I enjoyed this one very much and it is well worth its $70 retail price.

Closing Toughts

I have to give credit where credit is due.  I discovered Old Elk Wheated Bourbon at a recent Whiskey University Class that Dan and I were teaching at the Portland Regency.  There we met Meranne Behrends of Words From the Woods a local Portland marketing firm that just happens to represent Old Elk.  Over a glass of their excellent four grain whiskey after class, she shared how much this one was lighting it up for her client. Maybe it was a pitch, maybe not, it was subtle. Either way, I bought a bottle when I saw it and I have to say I am not disappointed.  Cheers to Meranne and the Words From the Woods team!

- Trevor